S EAN SHERMAN reckons he uses 25 pounds (11 kilos) of crickets a week: "Pretty much every table buys some." His restaurant, Owamni by the Sioux Chef, opened in Minneapolis in July and serves Native American fare. Customers can feast on blue-corn mush and bison tartare. Though indigenous restaurants remain scarce, they are spreading. Recent openings include Wapehpah's Kitchen in Oakland, California, and Watecha Bowl in Sioux Falls, South Dakota. What counts as Native American food remains up for debate. Mr Sherman uses only ingredients found in North America before Columbus arrived. Diners will find no wheat, beef, pork or chicken at Owamni. If rules change, they may be able to order something furrier. Mr Sherman has "a couple beavers” in his freezer but "can't sell them to the public because that kind of licensing doesn't even exist". Lois Ellen Frank, a food historian and caterer, takes a different tack. She says if every society were constrained by the ingredients available to their distant ancestors, Italians would have no pasta al pomodoro and Britons no chips. (Both tomatoes and potatoes came to Europe from the New World.) Ms Frank includes foods introduced to the south-west by the Spanish, such as… Read full this story
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